Red Rocks, located near Las Vegas, Nevada, is a premier climbing destination offering diverse routes for sport, traditional, and boulder enthusiasts. Its reliable weather and stunning landscapes make it a year-round attraction, especially during fall, winter, and spring. With its unique sandstone formations and comprehensive guidebooks, Red Rocks caters to climbers of all skill levels, providing an unforgettable experience in one of North America’s most iconic climbing spots.
Guidebooks
Red Rocks offers a variety of comprehensive guidebooks, including Joan Urioste’s classic and Jerry Handren’s detailed second edition. Digital resources like SuperTopos and KAYA PRO provide extensive route information for climbers of all levels.
Joan Urioste’s “The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada”
Joan Urioste’s “The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada” is a classic and highly respected guidebook for climbers exploring the Red Rocks area. Known for its detailed route descriptions and comprehensive coverage of the region, this book has become a must-have resource for climbers of all levels. It provides in-depth information on both popular and lesser-known routes, ensuring climbers can navigate the area with confidence. The guidebook also includes historical context and trivia about the region, making it a valuable tool for those who appreciate the cultural and geological significance of Red Rocks. While other guidebooks have emerged over the years, Urioste’s work remains a fundamental reference for climbers seeking to explore the best of Southern Nevada’s climbing opportunities. Its portability and detailed maps make it an essential companion for any climbing adventure in Red Rocks.
Jerry Handren’s “Red Rocks, A Climber’s Guide”
Jerry Handren’s “Red Rocks, A Climber’s Guide” is widely regarded as the most comprehensive and authoritative guidebook for Red Rocks. The second edition covers over 2300 climbs, including detailed descriptions, maps, topos, and photodiagrams. It is particularly praised for its inclusion of single and multi-pitch routes, making it a must-have resource for climbers of all levels. The guidebook emphasizes entry-level and moderate sport routes in areas like Calico Hills, while also featuring long, challenging free routes for experienced climbers. Handren’s work is known for its accuracy and thoroughness, making it the go-to guide for climbers seeking to explore Red Rocks. With over 400 new routes added in the latest edition, it remains the definitive source for navigating this iconic climbing destination.
Supertopo Guidebook by Greg Barnes
The Supertopo Guidebook by Greg Barnes is a selective guide that focuses on the best climbs in Red Rocks, catering to climbers seeking high-quality routes. It includes detailed SuperTopos for over 200 climbs, primarily in the 5.4 to 5.11 range, ensuring clarity and precision for climbers. The guidebook emphasizes classic multi-pitch routes, such as Crimson Chrysalis and Epinephrine, while also featuring sport climbing options. Its portability and concise format make it ideal for climbers who want to carry a lightweight yet informative guide. Barnes’ guide is particularly praised for its visual aids and ability to help climbers navigate Red Rocks’ vast terrain efficiently. It is a trusted resource for both visiting and local climbers, offering a curated selection of the area’s most iconic and enjoyable routes.
Digital Guidebooks and Resources
Digital guidebooks have revolutionized climbing in Red Rocks, offering climbers convenient and up-to-date information. The KAYA PRO guidebook is a standout, featuring over 1600 boulder problems with GPS, beta videos, and offline access. This digital resource is a collaboration with Tom Moulin, author of Southern Nevada Bouldering II, ensuring its reliability. Additionally, comprehensive digital guides provide detailed info on over 2300 rock climbs, including full descriptions, maps, topos, and photodiagrams. These platforms are portable and easy to navigate, making them ideal for climbers on the go. Many digital resources also offer real-time updates and community feedback, helping climbers stay informed about route conditions and new developments. With the rise of digital tools, climbers can now access everything from sport routes to multi-pitch classics with just a few taps, enhancing their Red Rocks experience.
Types of Climbing in Red Rocks
Red Rocks offers a diverse range of climbing experiences, including sport, traditional, bouldering, aid, and multi-pitch routes. These varied options cater to climbers of all skill levels, making it a renowned destination for climbing enthusiasts.
Sport Climbing
Sport climbing is a popular activity in Red Rocks, offering bolted routes that cater to climbers of all skill levels. The area features numerous sport routes, particularly in the 5.4 to 5.11 range, with many easily accessible locations. Calico Hills is a hotspot for sport climbing, boasting a high concentration of moderate routes. These routes are well-protected with bolts, making them ideal for both beginners and experienced climbers. The reliable weather and beautiful surroundings enhance the sport climbing experience, allowing climbers to enjoy the stunning sandstone formations year-round. With its diverse offerings, Red Rocks has become a top destination for sport climbers seeking adventure and challenge in a breathtaking environment.
Traditional Climbing
Traditional climbing in Red Rocks offers a unique and immersive experience, emphasizing the use of natural gear and multi-pitch adventures. The area is renowned for its long, free routes that challenge climbers with intricate sequences and exposed positions. Iconic routes like Crimson Chrysalis and Epinephrine have become symbols of Red Rocks’ allure, attracting climbers seeking both adventure and technical challenges. Traditional climbing here often requires a deep connection with the rock, as climbers place gear and navigate diverse terrain. The variety of routes, from moderate classics to extreme testpieces, ensures that climbers of all levels can explore the area’s stunning sandstone formations. Whether it’s the thrill of multi-pitch ascents or the satisfaction of overcoming a difficult pitch, traditional climbing in Red Rocks provides an unforgettable experience for those who embrace the spirit of adventure.
Bouldering
Bouldering in Red Rocks has emerged as a world-class activity, with over 1,600 documented problems across the area. The digital guidebook, created in collaboration with Tom Moulin, author of Southern Nevada Bouldering II, provides detailed beta, GPS coordinates, and videos to help climbers navigate the vast terrain. Red Rocks’ unique sandstone formations offer a variety of challenges, from easy slab routes to difficult overhangs. The area’s reliable weather and scenic beauty make it an ideal destination for boulderers year-round; With problems spanning all difficulty levels, climbers can enjoy everything from introductory routes to cutting-edge testpieces. The guidebook’s comprehensive coverage ensures that both locals and visitors can explore the best of Red Rocks’ bouldering, making it a must-have resource for anyone seeking to experience the area’s exceptional climbing opportunities.
Aid Climbing
Aid climbing in Red Rocks offers a unique challenge, with its iconic big walls and historic routes drawing climbers seeking adventure. Originally developed as aid routes, many of these climbs have transitioned into free ascents, but the area still maintains a strong reputation for classic aid climbs. Notable routes like Epinephrine and Crimson Chrysalis showcase the region’s diverse aid climbing opportunities. The Red Rocks Climbing Guidebook by Jerry Handren provides detailed information on these routes, including topos, maps, and written descriptions. The guidebook also highlights recent developments, such as the addition of new sport and moderate routes, making it an essential resource for both experienced climbers and newcomers. With its comprehensive coverage, the guidebook ensures climbers can navigate Red Rocks’ iconic aid climbs with confidence, making it a cornerstone for planning any aid climbing expedition in the area.
Multi-Pitch Climbing
Red Rocks is renowned for its exceptional multi-pitch climbing opportunities, offering routes that combine stunning vistas with challenging terrain. Climbers can explore iconic formations like Crimson Chrysalis and Epinephrine, which are staples of Red Rocks’ multi-pitch experience. These routes often feature intricate sandstone structures, providing both physical and mental challenges. The Red Rocks Climbing Guidebook by Jerry Handren is an indispensable resource, detailing over 2300 climbs with full written descriptions, maps, topos, and photodiagrams. This comprehensive guide ensures climbers can navigate the area’s vast multi-pitch options, from moderate sport routes to demanding free ascents. With its reliable weather and breathtaking landscapes, Red Rocks remains a top destination for multi-pitch enthusiasts, offering unforgettable adventures for climbers of all skill levels. The guidebook’s detailed information makes it easier to plan and execute climbs, ensuring a safe and enjoyable experience in this iconic climbing destination.
Best Climbing Routes
Red Rocks offers a variety of iconic routes, including Crimson Chrysalis and Epinephrine, perfect for multi-pitch adventures. Sport climbers enjoy the abundant moderate routes in areas like Calico Hills, while bouldering enthusiasts find endless challenges.
Classic Multi-Pitch Routes
Red Rocks is renowned for its iconic multi-pitch climbs, offering unforgettable experiences for climbers. Routes like Crimson Chrysalis and Epinephrine are legendary, featuring stunning sandstone formations and challenging ascents. These climbs are meticulously detailed in guidebooks such as Jerry Handren’s Red Rocks, A Climber’s Guide and Greg Barnes’ SuperTopo, providing essential insights for navigators. With grades ranging from 5.4 to 5.11, these routes cater to a wide range of skill levels, ensuring climbers can choose adventures that match their expertise. The high-quality sandstone and well-protected routes make Red Rocks a paradise for multi-pitch enthusiasts. These classic climbs are a testament to the area’s reputation as one of North America’s premier climbing destinations, offering both scenic beauty and technical challenges. For those seeking memorable multi-pitch experiences, Red Rocks delivers unparalleled opportunities to connect with nature and test climbing skills.
Popular Sport Climbing Routes
Red Rocks boasts an impressive array of sport climbing routes that attract climbers worldwide. The Calico Hills area is particularly popular, offering a high concentration of sport climbs with grades ranging from 5.6 to 5.10. Guidebooks like Jerry Handren’s Red Rocks, A Climber’s Guide and Greg Barnes’ SuperTopo provide detailed information on these routes, making navigation easy for climbers. Notable routes such as La Cierta Verde and Tunnel Vision are favorites among climbers, offering both challenging ascents and breathtaking views. The reliable weather and well-maintained bolts make sport climbing in Red Rocks a year-round activity. With over 200 featured routes, the area caters to climbers of all skill levels, ensuring an unforgettable sport climbing experience amidst the stunning sandstone formations. These routes are a testament to Red Rocks’ reputation as a world-class sport climbing destination.
Notable Bouldering Problems
Red Rocks is renowned for its exceptional bouldering opportunities, with over 1,600 documented problems across various skill levels. The KAYA PRO guidebook, developed in collaboration with Tom Moulin, author of Southern Nevada Bouldering II, is a go-to resource for climbers, offering detailed beta, GPS coordinates, and videos. Popular bouldering areas include the Kraft Boulders and the Peanut Gallery, where climbers can tackle iconic problems like Sword in the Stone (V5) and The Polish Traverse (V7). These problems are well-documented, providing climbers with essential information to navigate the terrain. The guidebook’s comprehensive coverage ensures that climbers can explore the best of Red Rocks’ bouldering, making it a must-have for any boulder enthusiast visiting the area. With its diverse range of challenges, Red Rocks continues to grow as a world-class bouldering destination.
Recommended Routes for Beginners
Red Rocks offers an array of beginner-friendly climbs, ideal for those new to the sport or looking to hone their skills. The Calico Hills area is particularly recommended, featuring numerous sport and traditional routes with short approaches. Physical Graffiti (5.6) is a popular sport route known for its well-bolted and forgiving terrain. For traditional climbing, Wholesome Fullback (5.6) and Fruity Pebbles (5.5) are excellent choices, offering great protection and manageable difficulty. These routes are detailed in guidebooks like Jerry Handren’s “Red Rocks, A Climber’s Guide,” which highlights the best entry-level options. The Kraft Boulders are also a great spot for bouldering, with problems like The Polish Traverse (V7) and Sword in the Stone (V5) providing a challenging yet accessible experience. These routes ensure a safe and enjoyable introduction to Red Rocks’ iconic climbing opportunities.
Climbing Destinations in Red Rocks
Red Rocks offers iconic destinations like Calico Hills and Crimson Canyon, known for stunning sandstone formations. These areas provide diverse climbing opportunities, attracting climbers of all skill levels with their unique landscapes and routes;
Calico Hills
Calico Hills is a vibrant and iconic climbing destination within Red Rocks, renowned for its colorful sandstone formations and diverse climbing opportunities. The area is particularly noted for its exceptional sport climbing routes, ranging from entry-level to advanced difficulty. Recent developments have added numerous moderate sport routes, making it a hotspot for climbers seeking variety. The unique landscape features intricate rock patterns and stunning vistas, creating an inspiring environment for climbers. Calico Hills is also praised for its accessibility and well-maintained trails, allowing climbers to easily navigate between routes. With its rich geological beauty and abundant climbing options, Calico Hills remains a must-visit destination for climbers exploring Red Rocks. Whether you’re a novice or an experienced climber, this area offers something for everyone, solidifying its reputation as a climbing gem in Southern Nevada.
Crimson Canyon
Crimson Canyon is a standout climbing destination within Red Rocks, celebrated for its striking red rock formations and challenging routes. Known for its narrow, shaded canyon environment, this area is a favorite among climbers seeking adventurous multi-pitch ascents. Routes like Crimson Chrysalis and Epinephrine are iconic, offering exceptional climbing experiences with breathtaking views. The canyon’s unique geology features intricate textures and vibrant colors, making it a visually inspiring location. Climbers appreciate the variety of traditional and sport climbing opportunities, catering to both intermediate and advanced skill levels. With its secluded atmosphere and world-class routes, Crimson Canyon is a must-visit for those exploring Red Rocks. Detailed descriptions and topos in guidebooks like Jerry Handren’s “Red Rocks, A Climber’s Guide” provide essential insights for navigating this remarkable area. Trails leading to the canyon are well-marked, ensuring easy access to its legendary climbs.
Other Notable Areas
Beyond the popular destinations, Red Rocks boasts several other notable areas that offer exceptional climbing experiences. Windy Peak, known for its sport climbing routes, provides a variety of challenges with its limestone cliffs and scenic vistas. Willow Spring is another gem, featuring traditional climbs that cater to intermediate and advanced climbers. The Kraft Boulders, located near the mouth of the canyon, are a hotspot for bouldering enthusiasts, with over 100 problems to tackle. These areas are less crowded than Calico Hills or Crimson Canyon, offering a more secluded climbing experience. With their unique rock formations and diverse climbing options, these regions are must-visits for climbers seeking to explore the full spectrum of Red Rocks’ climbing opportunities. Guidebooks like Jerry Handren’s “Red Rocks, A Climber’s Guide” provide detailed insights into these lesser-known but equally impressive destinations.
Best Seasons for Climbing
Fall, winter, and spring are the optimal seasons for climbing in Red Rocks. Mild weather, minimal precipitation, and cooler temperatures create ideal conditions, making it a perfect destination for climbers during these seasons.
Fall Climbing
Fall in Red Rocks offers ideal climbing conditions with mild temperatures and minimal precipitation. The weather is perfect for both sport and traditional climbing, making it a favorite season for climbers. Routes in areas like Calico Hills and Crimson Canyon are particularly popular during this time. The cooler air enhances endurance, allowing climbers to tackle longer and more challenging routes. Additionally, the fall season brings stunning scenery, with the red rock formations standing out against the vibrant autumn colors. Climbers of all skill levels can enjoy the diverse range of routes, from single-pitch sport climbs to multi-pitch adventures. Guidebooks highlight the best fall routes, ensuring climbers make the most of their experience. With its reliable weather and breathtaking views, fall is a prime time to explore Red Rocks’ climbing opportunities.
Winter Climbing
Winter is one of the best seasons for climbing in Red Rocks, offering cool, crisp weather ideal for tackling both short and long routes. The sandstone formations remain dry and grippy, making them perfect for sport and traditional climbing. With fewer crowds compared to fall or spring, winter provides a peaceful climbing experience. Guidebooks highlight routes that are particularly suited for colder months, such as those in shaded canyons like Crimson Canyon, which remain protected from harsh winds. The mild winter temperatures allow climbers to enjoy multi-pitch adventures without the fatigue of summer heat. Additionally, the scenic beauty of Red Rocks is enhanced during winter, with the contrast of snow-capped peaks against the red sandstone creating a stunning backdrop. Whether you’re a seasoned climber or a beginner, winter in Red Rocks offers optimal conditions for a memorable climbing experience.
Spring Climbing
Spring is one of the best times to climb in Red Rocks, offering mild temperatures and ideal conditions for both sport and traditional climbing. The weather is typically calm and sunny, with daytime temperatures ranging from 60°F to 80°F, making it perfect for long multi-pitch routes or single-pitch climbs. The area comes alive with wildflowers and greenery, adding to the scenic beauty of the landscape. Popular spots like Calico Hills and Crimson Canyon are particularly favored during spring, as they offer a mix of shaded and sunny routes. Guidebooks recommend tackling classic routes during this season, as the rock remains cool and grippy. Spring also marks the transition from cooler winter conditions to warmer summer months, making it an excellent time to climb before the heat sets in. With its diverse routes and pleasant weather, spring in Red Rocks is a climber’s paradise.
Safety and Etiquette
Safety is paramount in Red Rocks climbing. Always inspect gear, use proper techniques, and stay informed about changing conditions. Respect the environment by minimizing impact and following Leave No Trace principles.
Safety Tips and Precautions
Climbing in Red Rocks requires careful planning and adherence to safety protocols. Always research routes using updated guidebooks and assess weather conditions before heading out. Be mindful of the region’s unpredictable sandstone, which can be brittle and prone to breakage. Ensure proper gear inspection and use appropriate protection for both sport and traditional climbing. Stay hydrated, as the desert climate can quickly lead to dehydration. Climbers should also be aware of their physical limitations and choose routes that match their skill level. Navigation is crucial; stick to designated trails to avoid getting lost. Carry a first-aid kit and know basic emergency procedures. Respect the natural environment by minimizing waste and avoiding damage to vegetation. Finally, always climb with a partner and inform someone of your itinerary before heading into the wilderness.
Environmental Etiquette
Preserving Red Rocks’ unique environment is essential for future generations. Climbers should minimize their impact by staying on designated trails to prevent erosion and avoid damaging vegetation. Avoid removing or altering rocks, as this disrupts the natural ecosystem. Waste disposal is critical; pack out all trash, including food scraps and human waste, to keep the area pristine. Respect wildlife by not disturbing flora or fauna. Climbing bolts should only be placed by authorized individuals to maintain the area’s integrity. Refrain from removing or damaging plants, as they play a vital role in stabilizing the terrain. Keep noise levels low to maintain the peaceful environment. Always follow Leave No Trace principles and be mindful of sensitive habitats. By adhering to these guidelines, climbers can help protect Red Rocks’ natural beauty and ensure its availability for future climbers.
Climbing Regulations and Rules
Climbing in Red Rocks is governed by specific regulations to preserve the area’s natural and cultural resources. A free permit is required for climbing activities and can be obtained at the Red Rock Canyon Visitor Center; Bolting and new route development are strictly regulated, requiring approval from the Bureau of Land Management (BLM). Group sizes are limited to reduce environmental impact, with a maximum of 12 people per group. Camping is prohibited in the canyon, and climbers must adhere to designated parking areas. No drones are allowed without a permit, and all waste must be properly disposed of. Climbers are also restricted from accessing closed areas, such as sensitive habitats or cultural sites. The BLM periodically updates these regulations to manage the increasing popularity of Red Rocks, ensuring its sustainability for future climbers.
